ATLANTA — For Juneteenth, red foods are a signature part of the celebration. Combined with what's typically considered American Soul food is an integral part of the festivities.
Gee Smalls, the owner of Virgil's Gullah Kitchen, explained the significance of these familiar dishes and the importance of preserving their cultural heritage.
Virgil's Gullah Kitchen, known for its fiery flavors, is more than just a restaurant to Gee Smalls. He believes that celebrating Black American cuisine is a way to honor their food traditions and cultural roots. Smalls, who grew up in the Gullah Geechee Culture, understands the importance of food as a strong component of their heritage.
Gullah Geechee people lived predominantly in the Southern Atlantic states of Georgia, Florida, North Carolina, and South Carolina. It was Gee's upbringing in South Carolina that influenced the dishes in the restaurant he started with his husband Juan Smalls.
Among the dishes served at Virgil's Gullah Kitchen, one of Gee's favorites are shrimp and grits, which his father used to make. They referred to it as "shrimp and gravy." Gee Smalls explained that dishes like collard greens, fried chicken, and macaroni and cheese have long been stigmatized, but they are an integral part of the fabric of America.
"In the mornings we would eat shrimp and grits, and at night we would eat shrimp. I mean, shrimp and gravy over rice, because rice is something that's very native to our culture is rice," he said.
The recipes found at Virgil's Gullah Kitchen have been passed down through generations, from the time of slavery to emancipation. These cherished recipes, once enjoyed by the enslaved emancipated, and free men, are now relished by Gee's customers, connecting them to their ancestral roots.
"I think it's an amazing thing and it gives people the opportunity to learn more about Black culture and learn about more about our ancestors and learn more about why Juneteenth exists," he said.
Juneteenth, a day commemorating the emancipation of enslaved African Americans, holds a special significance for Gee and his kitchen. He highlighted the tradition of serving red rice at cookouts and barbecues in their culture, comparing it to the West African dish Jollof.
Gee's version of red rice pays homage to his Gullah Geechee heritage, showcasing the strong ties between the two cultures. While salmon is currently the most popular dish at Virgil's Gullah Kitchen, Gee adds a unique Gullah Geechee twist to this Black American favorite.
There's a blend of green peppers, red onions, and Gullah Geechee seasonings, Gee keeps the exact recipe a secret. When speaking with 11Alive's Karys Belger he only hinted at the presence of garlic, salt, and pepper with a mischievous laugh.
For Gee Smalls, every plate served at Virgil's Gullah Kitchen is an opportunity to share and educate others about Black American culture. He believes that by embracing their cultural heritage, they are reclaiming a part of history that has often been overlooked or marginalized. Gee expressed his desire for people to continue their hunger for Black American culture beyond Juneteenth.
As Juneteenth celebrations continue, Virgil's Gullah Kitchen stands as a beacon of cultural preservation, serving not only delectable dishes but also a reminder of the resilience, heritage, and history of Black Americans.
Recipes for the Juneteenth cookout
At any Juneteenth cookout, the customary red meat will be on the table. Hot dogs, sausages; and burgers are a must. Red deserts and strawberry sodas are also common. The red foods have become synonymous with the holiday.
The red foods on Juneteenth are symbolic of the blood of the enslaved ancestors who did not experience emancipation.
The color red was significant to the Yoruba and Kongo people who were brought to America via the Atlantic Slave Trade. In these cultures, red is symbolic of resistance and sacrifice as well.
Here are some recipes to include in your next Juneteenth gathering.
*Note recipe listed may yield different results as they are subjective depending on the household.
Red Beans and Rice
Ingredients
4 cans of kidney beans
1/2 cup of long-grain rice
1 tablespoon of vegetable stock
1 green pepper
1/2 sweet onion
Parsley
Cajun Seasoning
Black Pepper
Salt
Directions
Wash your rice. Open and drain your kidney beans. Save some of the juice from one of the cans.
Finely chop the onion and pepper and blend them together. Put them in a pot with the beans and juice as well as 1/2 cup of water. Add five shakes of cajun seasoning and pepper. Add a pinch of salt.
Stir together with water and vegetable stock until the liquid turns reddish brown and then cover. Turn the burner on simmer. Pour rice into simmering water and add a dash of garlic and black pepper. cook thoroughly and stir occasionally.
Once the rice is fully cooked, combine it with kidney beans and vegetables. Stir together and add more seasoning to taste.
Red Punch
Ingredients
1 quart of ginger ale
1 cup of fresh squeezed lemon juice
1 gallon of strawberry soda or red fruit punch
2 cups frozen strawberries or fruit of your choice
Directions
Pour all of the ingredients together saving the fruit for last. Once the fruit has been added stir until the drink is chilled.
Refill throughout the day with the sugary red drink of your choice